Passo Duran - Moiazza Sud (Ferrata Gianni Costantini)

Access to starting point:
The starting point is on the mountain pass Duran, to which brings us a road from Agordo and from the village Dont in Zoldo valley (Val di Zoldo). For access from Slovenia is perhaps more appropriate the second option. In this case on Italian highways A4, A28 and A27 we drive to the end of the latter after Belluno and from there we continue on the main road in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo. This road already in Longarone we leave and we turn on a side road in Zoldo valley, through which we drive good 20 km to the village Dont, where the road branches off to the left towards the mountain pass Duran. To the top there is 8 more kilometers of ascent.

Path description:
At the beginning, there is an ascent towards the mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato by the foot of the south walls of Moiazza. To there leads us marked path number 549, which leaves the road on the south side of the mountain pass Duran, right before it starts descending towards Agordo. First, a moderate ascent through pastures awaits, and then the path joins the forest road and follows it towards the east more or less on flat to the mountain hut. To here from a car we need a little less than an hour. At the mountain hut, we already find ourselves almost directly by the foot of the wall and we get anxious, when we think, that we will have to ascend over it.
Now signpost for ferrata Costantini leads on some sort of vegetated small ridge in the direction of the mountain wall, to which we need only good ten minutes. The entrance is marked with already from the far visible red rectangle and sign with the name of the path, and there is enough space so that before the beginning of climbing we can in peace put on equipment and have a snack.
When eventually we start climbing, firstly there is an entrance traverse. Few initial meters otherwise runs on a comfortable ledge, and then the path immediately becomes difficult, it goes steep upwards and continues with a crossing of the smooth wall towards the left. The crossing is on some parts quite unpleasant (about C/D), so that we get quickly aware, what kind of ferrata we are dealing with. Eventually, the steepness decreases a little and we find ourselves in the middle of quite gentle plates, which in that area form rugged and not too steep bottom part of the wall of Moiazza. Here the difficulty quite decreases, the path runs through leaned plates with only few steeper spots, which are not too demanding. In this part, we are quite quickly gaining altitude and we soon get closer to the top of the before mentioned less steep part of the wall. Like this after about an hour of climbing terrain flattens even a little more and in that area also steel cables for some time end. Red dots reliably lead at first in easy climbing through rugged rocks, after that even on a small footpath on grass and broken rocky slope all the way to the top of the bottom part of the wall. Here we literally hit by the upper, vertical part and we immediately realize, that we are in front of one of the hardest spots of the path. In short: we have to climb about ten meters long vertical to slightly overhang traverse diagonally to the left. Even though besides the steel cable we also get help from into a rock carved steps, the passage is still very demanding. And this isn't all – at the end of the traverse there is a rescuing stemple, where we can rest a little, but immediately from there ahead we have to ascend by the steel cable and rare foothold iron spikes through a long and entirely vertical chimney, which is followed by few more vertical spots. From the top of the traverse, there is about 50 meters of perfect vertical line without options for real rest, this part we can certainly rank with D. Eventually steel cable gradually starts turning towards the right, and the steepness decreases a little and we find ourselves on the top of the side column, which is with the main wall connected with a narrow notch, over which we have to stretch a little by the steel cable (attractive spot). In front of us is a wide crumbly gravel slope, on the top of which we notice the sign, which marks that this spot is called Pala del Belia, we are 2295 meters above the sea level. At this spot, we have climbed key spot of the bottom part of ferrata, and here is also the first option of an early exit from the wall – immediately after the notch, over which we stretched by the steel cable, on rock we notice faded sign for a turn-off towards the mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato, which marks the path on the ledge towards the left. The exit is unsecured and isn't very easy, and of course, it comes in handy, if on the key spot we realized, that it is too hard for us.
And if all goes as planned, we will of course continue. The initial ascent from Pala del Belia is otherwise surprisingly quite unpleasant, follows shorter traverse and ascent over slightly overhang rounded rock (somewhere C/D, from below it seems easier), but it is also very short. Above the rounded rock, problems decrease a lot and quite quickly we find ourselves on the bottom of a long, wide and quite gentle groove, which path follows quite some time. We are ascending more or less straight upwards, and the terrain is a slightly crumbly, so be careful, not to trigger stones. Otherwise there aren't many problems, only the exit from the groove is again vertical and a little harder. On the top of the groove, we find ourselves on a gravel slope, which we follow also a little upwards, whereupon the path turns towards the right, crosses a smaller notch and then it follows ledge through a little less steep wall towards the right (crumbly, gravel, unsecured – carefully!). At this spot, a view opens up downwards towards the mountain pass Duran, so that below us we can notice our car and we make sure, that we have already climbed quite high. But to the end, it is still very far. We cross for quite some time, eventually above the ledge we again notice steel cables and the path again turns upwards. The part which follows is otherwise one of easier in ferrata. Follows climbing through not too steep plates, unsecured easier rocks and eventually through shorter a little steeper, chimney with enough holds, all the way until we reach side peak Cima Cattedrale at an altitude 2558 meters. Behind us is already 700 meters of the wall, we are certainly already quite tired, but we are getting closer to the ridge, views are wider and we can have a feeling, that it was worth the effort. In front of us is the last part of the ascent on a ridge. It initially leads on small side ridge upwards and is mainly unsecured, when the terrain becomes steeper, finally also steel cables show up again. Those for some time lead on the open and attractive side outside corner, and then the path turns towards the left, follows the ledge and even descends a little, before steel cables again go over a wall towards the ridge. The last part is again a little harder, but it can't be compared with that what we climbed lower. Eventually, the steel cables again vanish and last steps of the ascent on a ridge we make on a comfortable footpath. Like this, we reach the highest point of the ridge Masenade, 2737 meters high. It isn't necessary to mention, that on this spot it is nice to make a stop – when views open up and next to Agner and Pale, which we could already observe during the ascent, we also notice Antelao, Pelmo and of course peak Moiazza on the north, it will certainly take our breath away and we will stop without knowing it. Just enjoy it, we are already high! But it is unnecessary to say – to the top, it is still far, and back into a valley even further.
From the top of Masenade blazes follow the ridge ahead. Here the path is mainly unsecured, but in fact more or less easy – ridge is precipitously cutted only on the left side, and right is most of the time enough gentle, that on the top is possible to have a very normal walk and only on some individual spots we are dealing with narrow and exposed passages. On few spots finally also steel cables show up, but passages are not problematic. So with wide views, we continue in a gentle descent, until before the notch Forcella delle Masenade follows a steeper section, which is well secured, so that we descend there without any problems and we reach the notch. Here is also the second option of an early exit from ferrata – because caption on rock marks turn-off of the path right downwards on the scree in the direction of bivouac Grisetti into a valley Vant della Moiazza, which is in good visibility seen to the naked eye. So if we had enough of climbing, we have to bivouac about three-quarters of an hour, and from there it is possible on the path 578 to cross back towards the starting point on the mountain pass Duran. This exit is a little unpleasant in the upper part, extensive scree can be problematic in poor visibility, otherwise it is entirely undemanding. Given that we are on this point already very tired, we will be certainly tempted, on the other side we are perhaps already too close to the peak, to leave the path just like that. So if we still have some energy, we should definitely continue, but I have to warn, that on ferrata from here on follows quite some demanding terrain and we are still not near the end.
So if we decide not to exit, ferrata on the other side of the notch still follows the ridge, which soon gets interrupted by a vertical rock barrier. The path already before it reaches a smooth rocky plate, bypasses it on the bottom side and gets close to a wall. It doesn't enter into it immediately, but first descends a little on gravel towards the right, until in a wall opens a passage on a ledge. Here steel cables show up again, passage is at first undemanding, then the path turns upwards and at first leads through more demanding steep chimney, and at the end, we have to climb also a short overhang (athletic spot, we also get help from two foothold wedges, about C/D), which ends in easier rocks. Here steel cables again end, and the path already after few steps reaches extensive scree below the wall of the upper rock head of Moiazza. Now follows good fifteen minutes of strenuous ascent on gravel, which brings us to a small saddle below the upper wall, where the path branches off to the right towards the summit of Moiazza. Ferrata otherwise continues towards the left, crosses a saddle and descends on the other side towards the bivouac Ghedini, but on this spot, it is really not worth to miss the peak. Because there leads only about half an hour long turn-off of the secured path. And in the same breath I have to add, that first part of this upper turn off is quite unpleasant and by difficulty can be without problems compared with the most difficult spots in the lower part. But if we came to here and we aren't too tired, it is definitely worthed to ascend also on the peak.
The final ascent – if we decide for it – becomes difficult right at the beginning, in traverse immediately after the turn-off, only few meters above the ground. This is perhaps the only spot in the entire ferrata, where for few movements footholds completely vanish and we have to help ourselves only with friction. Only few movements, only meter or two in length, but the passage is very unpleasant, especially because we have to in the middle of it also clip carabiners of self-belay set. When we are over, still in a vertical wall we step on a smaller ledge, from which we have to ascend also through a vertical chimney, where we can already help ourselves with good steps (passage certainly deserves grade D). The chimney ends on a ridge, which steel cable now follows and leads through another vertical spot, after that the iron for some time ends and we can say, that we have on this spot ticket for the peak finally in the pocket. Because from here on there aren't any bigger problems anymore. For some time we are ascending in the area of the ridge, whereupon we leave it and we follow a narrow ledge towards the left over a steep wall. The passage is very exposed, but first part of the ledge is very easy, in the second part when ledge narrows, steel cable appears again. So we follow the ledge around side outside corner, after which steel cables again turn upwards and lead through nice climbing spots in a smooth, but quite gentle wall. On its top, the steel cables again end and comfortable path in few minutes brings us on the secondary peak. To the main peak, we have to descend a little and cross on the ridge (few more shorter secured spots) to final a slightly crumbly groove, through which we finally ascend on spacious, plateau peak. Certainly one of the most difficult summited peaks in our wider surrounding, at least of those, on which we ascend on a marked path! Therefore on this spot, we can let it go and enjoy in views, which are now finally wrapped up – only here the view opens up also towards the north, where of course the main spot has the queen of Dolomites – Marmolada. When we enjoyed them and had a snack, we prepare for still long and demanding descent.
For the beginning we have to return to the turn-off of the path to the summit of course on the same path – a lot of caution requires especially last part with vertical spots and smooth traverse for the end. When we have returned to a crossing, we follow numerous red dots towards the northwest, we cross the saddle and we move into a wall above the valley Van dei Cantoi. Here follows one of the most spectacular passages of the entire ferrata – follows crossing of the entire wall on the so-called Angelini ledge. The narrow ledge is winding above the wild precipices, but it is most of the time still wide enough, that offers a normal walk, on spots where it is narrower, we also get help from a steel cable. In a gentle descent, we follow it quite some time, until eventually it ends in a notch above the valley Van delle Nevere on the northern side of the mountain. Here we turn right and for some time we still cross on the ledge (this one is compared to previous a little more unpleasant and crumbly, but with some sense, it is not a problem), and then on easy rocks we descend on the scree below the northern walls of Moiazza. This way we crossed practically the entire group of Moiazza, from the south towards the north! Now follows the scree, on which we at first for a short time descend and then we cross it to bivouac Ghedini on notch Forcella delle Nevere. This spot is again appropriate for a short rest, on this spot we have to say few things: firstly, just completed descent on the ledge is perhaps one of the most beautiful parts of ferrata, but it is also one of those, where in the early season snow can cause problems. In this case of course comes in handy winter equipment, but the terrain is so steep, that the passage is dangerous also with full equipment. Perhaps it is best to enquire about conditions in mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato and go on the path only when it is certainly snowless. And secondly, the bivouac is modest but offers overnight stays in an emergency. If you find yourself in trouble, there is no need to resist it, the problem could be water, because with an exception of possible snow fields there isn't any. And thirdly, in an emergency is possible also easy descent on the north towards the mountain hut Rifugio Vazzoler. Of course with that we logistically make it very complicated, therefore this option except in an emergency isn't recommended.
Anyway, „correct“ descent route on this spot turns towards the south, into a wall above the valley Van dei Cantoi. Here it is hard to say anything else than this, that a key question is, how much energy we still have. Because it is some sort of easier ferrata, which at first crosses a little high above the valley, and then steeply descends on a rugged wall. Technically there aren't any special problems, but steep secured spots, and especially unsecured parts on unpleasant crumbly terrain for quite some time still demand complete concentration, especially because we are certainly already very tired. We have to descend for about 500 altitude meters, before the path turns among dwarf pines on the east slope of the valley and finally becomes easier. Next follows some crossing of dwarf pine terrain more or less on flat, and then the path again starts descending, on easier terrain through some gullies descends into bottom of the valley and there at an altitude around 1800 meters finally reaches marked path number 554, which crosses from the mountain hut Rifugio Vazzoler towards the mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato. Here we can finally relax and say, that ferrata is in our pocket. If we will come to here only at the end of the day – which is quite possible – we will be greeted also by the scenery of peaks of the mountains from groups San Sebastiano and Tamer in the evening sun. And we can be proud of what we have done.
Here problems finally end, and to the starting point, it separates us a good half an hour of crossing below the walls to the mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato (which is certainly a nuisance to us), from where to the starting point on the mountain pass Duran we return on an already known path.
Ferrata costantini is certainly one of the most magnificent Dolomites ferratas. It is the longest of all, and in existing guide books is often defined also as the most difficult. In fact technically isn't extremely demanding (on some spots reaches difficulty D, never exceeds it) and some other Dolomites ferratas certainly exceeds it (Piazzetta, Magnifici 4, Sci club 18, and probably some others). An extenuating circumstance is also the fact, that the path is really very well secured, practically every iron spike is in the right place. On the other side a combination of length, high mountain setting, unsecured parts, and also quite decent technical difficulty means, that it is a very demanding tour. It is definitely good to go there only, when we already have some experiences with ferratas of similar difficulty and we don't have problems with physical fitness, and also then we can consider sleeping in mountain hut Rifugio Carestiato and entrance into a wall very early in the morning. To all those, that fulfill those conditions, I strongly recommend the tour, combination of large Dolomites wall, excellently routed path over nice climbing spots and great views it won't leave anyone indifferent.

On the way: Rifugio Bruto Carestiato (1834m), Pala del Belia (2295m), Cima Cattedrale (2558m), Cresta delle Masenade (2737m), Bivacco Ghedini-Moiazza (2601m)