Planina Zajzera - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (Via Amalia)

Access to starting point:
From Kranjska Gora over the border crossing Rateče we drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Further, we drive on the old road towards Videm / Udine. Already after few kilometers from Trbiž / Tarvisio, the road into Ovčja vas / Valbruna branches off to the left. Here we turn left and we follow the road all the way to the mountain pasture Zajzera, where we park on a large parking lot.

Path description:
From the parking lot, we go on the road which is closed for traffic following the signs Bivacco Mazzeni, Bivacco Stuparich. The road at first slightly descends and then leads through the forest. We soon come out of the forest to a wide riverbed of the stream, where a lot of sand is deposited. Here the path is a little poorly visible and terrain with sand we cross slightly to the right. The path then brings us to a crossing, where we go right following the signs Bivacco Stuparich. With the help of some cairns we again cross a torrent to the right and then the path brings us into the forest. The path through the forest soon starts quite steeply ascending, then turns to the left and soon nice views open up to mountain walls of Montaž. The path further leads by the riverbed of the stream past some bushes and dwarf pines and it brings us to a crossing. We continue to the left following the signs Stuparich, and right leads the path towards the mountain hut Grego.

The path here turns to the left and starts ascending in zig-zags through a thin forest on the left side of the valley. Such a path again brings us to a crossing. We go left towards the bivouac Stuparich, and right leads the path towards the valley Dunjska dolina. Further, the path starts crossing slope towards the east and then soon brings us to bivouac Stuparich.

From the bivouac, we return few meters back where caption on a big rock points us right upwards (southwest). The path left downwards (southeast) leads towards the bivouac Mazzeni.

For a short time, we are then ascending on a little overgrown path through bushes, and then the path brings us to the riverbed of a torrent. Here we turn to the left and we are ascending on the right side of the riverbed of a torrent upwards. Blazes here are rare, and we get help from numerous cairns. The path then turns to the right and crosses slopes below Montaž towards the west all the way to the entry into a climbing part of the path.

The climbing path in the beginning turns left into the wall and starts ascending in steep zig-zags by the steel cable, and we also get help from some iron spikes. On some spots, the path ascends almost vertically. The path then turns to the right and very steeply ascends by the steel cable upwards. Next follows a vertical ascent with the help of numerous stemples, which brings us to a narrow notch. Through the notch, we slightly descend and then follows a demanding vertical ascent left upwards. Besides the steel cables at the ascent, we get help also from some iron spikes.

The path further becomes a little less demanding and starts ascending by the steel cable on a quite wide gully upwards. The path then turns to the left and for a short time brings us on a gentle grassy slope, and then it again starts ascending on a rocky slope upwards. Further, the path few more times quite steeply ascends by the steel cable, and we also get help from few stemples. The path then brings us below Severni stolp (Torre Nord), where it turns to the right. Here we cross steep slopes towards the west, in the early summer are here often snow fields. Next follows an ascent on steep grassy slopes and then ascent by the steel cable on a slightly crumbly slope. Such a path then brings us to narrow ridge from where also beautiful views open up towards the west. Next follows a short ascent on a ridge and then the path turns on the west side and starts descending on a steep grassy slope. Further, the path for some time crosses slopes towards the south, and then turns to the left and is ascending a little steeper on a rocky slope upwards. To the bivouac Suringar then follows only a short crossing on the ledge to the right.

From the bivouac, we continue towards the south and for a short time, we still cross western slopes, and then we get to a crossing where blazes point us to the left upwards. The path which is marked with red dots starts quite steeply ascending and brings us in Findenegg couloir. Ascent through the couloir is relatively steep and is also exposed to falling stones. And the path on this part isn't secured and larger part of the path is first grade climbing, and short section also the second grade.

At the exit from the couloir, the path becomes slightly crumbly, therefore we have to be careful, not to trigger stones. Further, the path brings us to an exposed ridge on which we then soon reach the panoramic peak.

We can descend on the ascent route. Because this is long and very demanding path it is recommended, that we organize transport from the mountain pasture Pecol, and then we descend on normal south path over Pipan's ladder.

On the way: Bivacco Stuparich (1587m), Bivacco Suringar (2430m)