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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Dolkova špica / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1015 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4128°N 13.8466°E 
Path name: on SE ridge
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: very demanding
Altitude difference: 1576 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1576 m
Map: Triglav 1.25.000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 18,167
Trip rating: 5 votes
Number of pictures: 10
Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of valley Vrata and we drive on that road to the large parking lot near Aljažev dom.
Path description:
From the parking lot, we continue on a macadam road which after 3 minutes of walking brings us to a crossing at Aljažev dom.
We continue right in the direction of Škrlatica and Dolkova špica on the path which through a meadow leads into the forest. Further, we are ascending on at first a gentle cart track which higher changes into a little steeper footpath. The path soon brings us to a riverbed of a torrent, by which it is ascending only for a short time, and then it turns right and steeply ascends through the forest. The path is then turning towards the left, where it crosses a short avalanche slope, and then it gradually passes on the slopes below Stenar. Further, we are ascending on the mentioned slopes, which are slightly covered with dwarf pines and individual larches. Higher, the path brings us to a smaller crossing, where we continue right in the direction of Škrlatica (left Stenar on an unmarked path through Stenarska vratca). The path ahead is ascending only for a short time, and then it flattens and it brings us to a bigger crossing, where we continue right in the direction of Škrlatica (left bivouac 2 minutes and Križ 1:30). The path ahead crosses smaller scree and then turns sharply right. Further, we cross a slightly exposed ledge (dangerous for slipping) behind which we come on pastures below Dolkova špica.
The route starts good half an hour from the bivouac on grassy shoulder exactly, below the southeast outside corner of Dolkova špica. First, we are ascending on steep grass and here and there we have to climb some rock. Later in the wall, we are looking for easiest passages among chimneys and gullies. In principle, we stick more to the right side of the wall. On demanding orientational spots there is a cairn. Steepness doesn't decrease to Spodnja Dolkova špica 2541 meters, but here real ridge just really starts. Ridge is approximately 1 km long, problems are moderate, only at the passage into a notch a little more safe and calm step is needed. This might be even the most difficult part of the entire tour.
From the top, we descend into the notch Rdeča škrbina, where we have then two variant, towards the bivouac Bivak na Rušju, better known as bivouac IV, or in Zadnji Dolek and descent through cirque between Škrlatica and Dolkova špica.
On the way: Bivak na Rušju (1980m)
Pictures:
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica1
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica2
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica3
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica4
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica5
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica6
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica7
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica8
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica9
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica10
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