Dösner Alm - Säuleck (Klettersteig)

Access to starting point:
From Ljubljana through Karawanks tunnel to Spittal. Ahead we drive towards Lienz, but only to the settlement Möllbrücke. In the mentioned settlement we notice signs for Mallnitz and alpine road on Großglockner. We follow this road to the settlement Obervellach, where signs for Mallnitz point us to the right. Behind the village, the road starts ascending steeper and after few kilometers of ascent brings us to alpine town Mallnitz. Only a little before the railway station in the mentioned settlement road branches off to the right in the direction of the mountain pasture Dösner Alm. Steep and narrow road higher brings us on a poorly marked crossroad, where we continue on the bottom macadam road. Ahead we cross a grazing fence and only a little further we come to the parking lot, where we park.

Path description:
From the parking lot, we continue on a macadam road which after few ten strides brings us to the crossing. We continue left on a wide cart track which after a short ascent brings us to the mountain pasture Dösner Alm.
On the mountain pasture, we return on the road which is further barely noticeably ascending by the edge of the mountain pasture upwards. Ahead the road a little steeper ascends and it brings us to the cottage Konradhütte (1600 meters).
And only few steps ahead on the left side of the road, we notice a smaller lake, which by in high waters rises right to the edge of the road. At the end of the lake road changes into a pleasant footpath which then in a moderate ascent leads by the stream upwards. After half an hour ascent from the cottage Konradhütte we slowly pass out of the forest on the more and more panoramic slopes. The path which was then becoming steeper and steeper, suddenly flattens and it brings us to a nice high mountain pastures at the mountain hut Dösner Hütte (1976 meters).
A gentle ascent follows over mountain pasture to a little more steep part, where we can listen to roaring of rapid stream. After additional 15 minutes, the steepness decreases and the path brings us in high mountain cirque, where there is confluence of several streams. Further, we over the bridge cross a stream and then on a steeper path we ascend a level higher. All the time during the ascent we are accompanied by roaring of the stream Dösenbach. When the path flattens, we again cross the stream and the path brings us to the mountain hut Arthur Von Schmid Haus, which is situated by the lake Dösner See.
From the mountain hut, we continue left in the direction of Säuleck on the path which already after few ten strides starts ascending steeply. After 15 minutes of a steep ascent steepness decreases and the path turns right. Further, we are ascending parallel with the lake, which we occasionally see right below us. After additional few minutes of ascent on high mountain terrain, which is full of granite plates we come to a marked crossing.
At the crossing, we continue left towards the climbing path (Klettersteig-Säuleck), and straight leads an easier path on Säuleck. From the crossing, we at first walk on rocky plates, and then follows a shorter ascent on the scree, which brings us below the wall where there is an entrance into a climbing part of the path.
At the beginning climbing path turns right and is ascending diagonally on smooth plates. The path here isn't too steep but because on the path, there aren't many footholds, some strength in arms is still needed (difficulty D and C/D). After that, the path for a short time becomes easier. Here the path isn't secured and at first crosses a slope to the left and then follows a shorter ascent, which brings us in front of more demanding part of the path. On this part, the path at first almost vertically ascends (D/E), then turns slightly to the right and is still quite steeply ascending by the steel cable. Next follows a demanding vertical ascent (D/E). Since the path is secured only with a steel cable quite a lot of strength in arms is needed. On vertical part we once again a little steeper ascend, and then the path becomes a little less steep (B). Such a path then brings us to the inscription box where there is also suitable place to rest.
From the inscription box path again few times very steeply ascends by the steel cable (C/D and D). Next follows a short descent and then short vertical ascent (D/E). Further, the path becomes slightly less demanding and brings us on the ridge from which a view opens up towards the peaks Ankogel and Hochalmspitze.
The path further all the time runs on a secured ridge and several times steeply ascends and descends. Ascents and descents are mostly very short and therefore a little less demanding as those in the first part of a secured path. On panoramic ridge we then soon reach the peak.
We descend on an easier path which runs on less steep southern slopes of the mountain.
The described path is extremely demanding and it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers with enough strength in arms. It is mandatory to use a helmet and self belaying, highly recommended is also the use of climbing gloves.

On the way: Konradhütte (1600m), Dösner Hütte (1976m), Arthur Von Schmid Haus (2275m)