Gozd Martuljek - Široka peč

Access to starting point:
From Mojstrana we drive towards Kranjska Gora or vice versa, but only to the village Gozd Martuljek, where we park on a parking lot near the bridge over the river Sava Dolinka (parking lot is located after the bridge, or before, if we come from Kranjska Gora).

Route description:
From the parking lot, we continue by the main road towards Kranjska Gora, but only to a spot, where cycling road branches off to the left (by the beginning of the cycling path there are also signposts, which point us on the mentioned road). We follow the cycling road to the first crossroad, where we continue straight on a macadam road (cycling road turns right), which quickly brings us to the next crossroad.

We continue to the right and follow the road closed to traffic up to the TNP signpost. Further, the path splits into two parts. We continue straight upwards on a steep cart track which is ascending on the right side of gorge Martuljška soteska. Cart track, which is mostly ascending through the forest after 15 minutes brings us on a nice vantage point, where a view opens up towards a valley. The path then goes again in the forest and continues to ascend. A little further from the left joins the path from the waterfall, and a little further, the path towards the bivouac Bivak pod Špikom branches off to the right. We continue in the direction of the cottage Ingotova koča. The path ahead brings us to a crossing, where we continue straight, the path left runs to the cottage Ingotova koča to which is two minutes of walking.

The path ahead at first ascends gently, but only for a short while. After that, the path crosses a spring and on the other side steeply ascends. Steepness starts decreasing and the path brings us to a crossing, where we continue slightly right in the direction of bivouac Za Akom (left waterfall Zgornji slap 10 minutes). The path ahead is for some time still steeply ascending, and then the path brings us to a more demanding part. First, with the help of steel cables we cross steep grassy slope, and then still with the help of fixed safety gear we walk over an exposed ledge (watch your head, slightly overhanging rock above us). Still secured path (fixed safety gear are here mainly because of wet terrain), then starts ascending steeper and after few minutes of additional walking brings us to the most difficult part. With the help of artificial steps and steel cables, we cross a smooth and wet rocky plate, and then we also cross a shorter very steep wall, which is also well-secured (because of wet slopes a great caution is needed). The steepness of the slopes then decreases and still wet path after a shorter ascent brings us by the edge of mighty gravel beds. We are at the juncture of two gullies, we continue on the left, in front of us a view starts opening up on mighty upper massif of Široka peč. At the end the gully splits into more parts, we continue on the right gully, to first smooth jammed boulder (8 meters III.), which we climb on the left (if left side is wet, we have no other choice, than that we climb it on the middle, which increases difficulty!), we are ascending upwards through the gully, cairns showing the way. We are already in front of a smooth jump (15 meters II.), which we start climbing on the left (ramp, piton for belaying), to a smaller plain. Now follows climbing on broken, crumbly terrain (15 meters, II.) to green shoulder, where we can relax for a moment.
We continue straight towards the V pillar of Široka peč, to a rock barrier. We avoid rock barrier to the right, few more meters separates us to the first key point of the ascent. We are in front of 30 meters rocky jump, which is closing passage into amphitheater. Jump is divided into two parts, first part is easy and we can climb it without belaying, and in the second part belaying is mandatory (III+), there are enough pitons, the anchor is also settled. From the anchor, we go forward towards easier rock bands, which we bypass from the right towards the left (50 meters I.) and now we are in the amphitheatre. We continue towards the gable of the cirque, to a well visible ramp (100 meters I.-II.) in the massif of Široka peč. On the ramp, we ascend to the notch, in which we then descend on a rope (anchors are equipped, descent into a notch as well). From the notch, we continue on reddish gully (crumbly, slippery), to the ridge. A meter before the ridge we turn right and we cross smooth plate (I.) to the next small notch. Follows second key spot: traverse to the right, on an exposed ledge (I.-II.) (for detour we can descend from a small notch into the gully and we continue on the ridge, but the gully is steep and unpleasant). Now we have only a pitch of climbing on a crumbly and broken terrain to the main peak of Široka peč.

The ascent from Gozd Martuljek to Široko peč is considered an alpine climb; set out on this route with someone who has already been to the summit, most suitably with a mountain guide.
Široka peč is well equipped.

We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, summit register