Ljubelj - Begunjščica (Zeleniška smer)

Access to starting point:
From highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go to the exit Ljubelj and follow the road ahead to the border crossing. Only few meters before the border crossing signs for Zelenica point us to the left and after few 10 meters of additional driving the road brings us on a parking lot below the ski center Zelenica.

Path description:
From the parking lot, we go on a footpath in the direction of Zelenica, Vrtača and Stol. Cart track which runs on the left side of the ski track, after approximately 15 minutes of a moderate ascent through the forest brings us to the before mentioned track by which we are then ascending. The path which offers nice views on extensive scree of Begunjščica on the left and to a ridge of Ljubeljščica on the right then in a gentle ascent brings us to the hut Vrtača.
From the mountain hut, we continue straight on a marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and after a shorter diagonal ascent brings us into a lane of dwarf pines. Further, the path is for a short time steeply ascending and then brings us on a cart track (transport road), which we follow in a moderate ascent to the mountain hut Dom na Zelenici. While ski track operates it is forbidden to walk on a ski slope. At that time we use the winter path which runs on a transport road.
From Dom na Zelenici we go on the south side towards the northern wall of Begunjščica. It is best to follow the circular path, which from Zelenica runs on Roblekov dom below Begunjščica. At the handy spot, approximately 20 minutes from Dom na Zelenici we turn steep upwards towards the northern wall of Begunjščica. Route runs through the gully, pushed between two peaks of northwestern ridge. Difficulty depends on the amount of snow, so in bad snow conditions in the route there await us at least four shorter rocky jumps.
The route starts on some sort of chimney/corner, which separates route to the first snow field in the gully. From the first anchor (piton in the rock) in good conditions, it is possible to go on a direct passage over a jump further into a gully, in case of bad conditions we climb by the jump on the right side and we traverse forward into a gully. Above that jump continuation of gully brings us to the next anchor (piton in the rock). In good conditions and when the jump is filled with the snow there aren't any special problems, and if the jump is snowless then this is the hardest spot on the route (IV+ 4m) and we also have to climb on the rock. After that jump, the main problems end and a steep gully in two pitches brings us on the northwestern ridge of Begunjščica.
From there we have more options - through the gully on the northwestern ridge back towards the entrance and consequently into a valley, or further on the northwestern ridge on Veliki vrh of Begunjščica. From Veliki vrh we can descend through the gully Centralna grapa or gully Grapa Y back towards the starting point. Even though the route is long only 200 meters it is not to be underestimated because otherwise relaxed climbing can quickly be spiced up by dry rocky jump. Don't go in the route after a snowfall because the route is one big slide! Wish you a lot of pleasure in climbing and do not forget about safety!