Malga Ciapela - Punta Penia (Marmolada)

Access to starting point:
A) First, we drive to Cortina d'Ampezzo (to here possible over the border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then on a highway in the direction of Videm / Udine to exit Tolmezzo. From Tolmezzo we follow the road in the direction of village Ampezzo and mountain pass Passo Mauria. The road then descends and it brings us to a crossroad, where we continue left (possible also right) in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all next crossroads, we follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo and then we follow the signs for Alpine mountain pass Passo di Falzarego. Already in the first part of the ascent towards the mountain pass Falzarego we will get to a crossroad, where signs for mountain pass Passo di Giau (2233 meters) and Marmolada point us to the left. The road behind the mountain pass Giau starts descending and lower we follow it through the settlements in the direction of Marmolada or mountain pass Passo di Fedaia. The road towards the mountain pass Passo di Fedaia we then follow to the crossroad little before the bottom station of the cable car. Here we go left on a narrow asphalt road towards the mountain pasture Malga Ciapela. The road then leads us past camp and tourist farm Malga Ciapela. Only a little after farm asphalt road ends. Here we park on one of the parking lots by the road.
B) Access from Primorska: We drive on the highway in the direction of Padova, but only to a highway junction, where we continue in the direction of the town Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno the highway ends, and we follow the road ahead in the direction of Belluno, where at the larger crossroad we continue right in the direction of the town Agordo. From the mentioned town ahead we follow frequent signs for Marmolada or mountain pass Passo di Fedaia. The road towards the mountain pass Passo di Fedaia we then follow to the crossroad little before the bottom station of the cable car. Here we go left on a narrow asphalt road towards the mountain pasture Malga Ciapela. The road then leads us past camp and tourist farm Malga Ciapela. Only a little after farm asphalt road ends. Here we park on one of the parking lots by the road.

Path description:
From the parking lot, we go on a macadam road which is further closed for traffic. First, we cross the bridge and then the road brings us to a marked crossing.
The footpath towards the saddle Passo di Forca Rossa branches off to the left, and we continue right on a macadam road which ascends steeper. We soon come to another crossing. This time we go right in the forest on a footpath towards the mountain pasture Malga Ombretta and mountain hut Falier. Further, on the road and later on a mule track leads also other a little less steep path towards the same mountain pasture.
From the crossing, the footpath starts ascending steeper and occasionally from the path also a nice view opens up on the nearby peaks. After that, the path turns a little to the right and in ascent crosses a steep slope. The path on this part isn't demanding because it is secured with a fence, and we also get help from stairs. The slope again becomes less steep and from the path, a view opens up towards a smaller dam by the path. The path continues to ascend through the forest and later crosses a mule track. The path becomes a little less steep and soon out of the forest brings us on panoramic mountain pasture Malga Ombretta where there is also a smaller cottage.
From the mountain hut, we continue on the path which runs through pastures towards the west. Further, the path turns slightly to the right so that it runs on the right side of the valley. The path then leads us through a short lane of a forest and only a short ascent follows to the hut Rifugio Failer, which is situated below the slopes of the peak Cima Obretta.
From the mountain hut, we continue on the path 610 towards the saddle Passo Ombretta. From the mountain hut, the path is ascending on a mule track mostly through dwarf pines towards the north. When we get a little closer to the walls of Marmolada dwarf pines end, and the path turns to the left. The more and more scenic path is then ascending towards the west and runs on terrain partly covered with grass. Grassy slopes later pass into scree and the path is for some time slightly ascending towards the west. In the last part of the ascent towards the saddle Passo Ombretta, the path turns to the right and starts ascending steeply on the scree all the way to the mentioned saddle where there is also a crossing.
On the saddle, we go right on an unmarked path. From the saddle, we are at first ascending towards the walls of Marmolada and then we will notice a footpath which crosses steep scree towards the west. We go left on the mentioned footpath on which we will also notice some old blazes. The path otherwise isn't maintained and on some parts the scree is very steep so that quite some caution is needed. After crossing of the scree we then join a marked path which leads past the mountain hut Rifugio Contrin. The more demanding part we can otherwise also avoid if from the saddle Passo Ombretta we descend approximately 100 altitude meters on the west side and then we go right on an easier unmarked path. Or we can also descend on a marked path all the way to a marked crossing at an altitude 2400 meters and then there go right towards the notch Forcella Marmolada. In this case, we will descend 300 altitude meters.
When we after the crossing join the path past the mountain hut Rifugio Contrin we continue right and then follows an ascent on steep scree, which brings us below the wall, where there is an entrance into a climbing part of the path.
In the initial part, the climbing path steeply ascends on the right side of the gully and we get help from numerous stemples. A relatively short initial ascent brings us on notch Forcella Marmolada, where from the left joins the path from the lake Lago di Fedaia.
On the notch, we continue right and we start ascending on a steep slope with the help of stemples. After that, the path turns slightly to the right and for a short time leads on the ridge, where again a view opens up on the south side. Further, the path again avoids the ridge a little to the left and is then for quite some time ascending by the steel cable on numerous stemples and iron spikes. Such a path again brings us on a well-secured ridge on which we are then ascending towards the east. In the last part, the path becomes less steep and then follows a short crossing of a gentle snow field. In case if the snow field is frozen in spite of that, that it is gentle it is still recommended to use ice axe and crampons.
Next follows a short undemanding ascent to the cottage, where from the left side joins a path over a glacier. From here we have then only few steps of easy walking to the highest peak of Dolomites.

On the way: Malga Ombretta (1904m), Rifugio Onorio Falier (2074m), Passo Ombretta (2702m), Forcella Marmolada (2896m)