Passo Falzarego - Punta Fanes Sud (Via Ferrata Tomaselli)

Access to starting point:
First, we drive to Cortina d'Ampezzo (to here possible over a border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then on a highway in the direction of Videm / Udine to exit Tolmezzo. From Tolmezzo we follow the road in the direction of village Ampezzo and mountain pass Passo Mauria. The road then descends and it brings us to a crossroad, where we continue left (possible also right) in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all next crossroads, we follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo.
Or from Primorska side, where we drive on a highway in the direction of Trst / Trieste. Further, we drive on Italian highway in the direction of Padova, but only to a highway junction, where we continue in the direction of Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno the highway ends, and at the next crossroads we continue in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo and then we follow the signs for Alpine mountain pass Passo di Falzarego. This ascending road we then follow to a large parking lot on the mentioned mountain pass.
To Cortina d'Ampezzo we can also come from the direction of Austria (direction Karawanks Tunnel, Spittal, Lienz, Sillian, Dobbiacho / Toblach, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Passo Falzarego).

Path description:
Only few ten meters away from the parking lot at the bottom station of the cable car on Lagazuoi Piccolo we will notice signs for the tunnel Lagazuoi. The path at first leads on a worse for traffic closed macadam road (road for the purpose of a ski slope), which after a short ascent brings us to the spot, where signs for tunnel point us slightly to the left. We continue the ascent on a wide mountain path, which is ascending parallel with the road which we just left. A moderately steep path then from a lane of dwarf pines brings us on the scree, from which beautiful views are opening up mainly towards the south. Well maintained path, after a little less than an hour of walking, it brings us to a crossing, where we continue right on normal mountain path (left path through the tunnel).
The path then crosses slopes below the steep mountain walls of Lagazuoi Piccolo (danger of falling stones) and a little further through torrent well passes on the scree between the mentioned and the neighbouring peak named Cima Falzarego. Here the path turns a little to the left and on a moderately steep slope ascends on a panoramic saddle forcella Travenanzes, where there is a crossing.
We continue straight in the direction of "bivacco della Chiesa" on the path which crosses scree on the right (eastern) side of the ridge Lagazuoi Grande. After few minutes of crossing path brings us below the mountain walls of the mentioned ridge (danger of falling stones) and then it ascends on a smaller saddle, where we notice numerous underground tunnels. We still continue in the direction of bivouac Chiesa on the path which occasionally a little steeper ascends. The more and more panoramic transverse path and the path higher brings us on a saddle forcella Grande, from which in few steps of descent we come to bivouac Chiesa.
From the bivouac, we continue by following the signs for »Via Ferrata Tomaselli« and already after few ten meters, we enter into southwest wall of the peak Punta Fanes Sud (2980 meters). In the initial part we ascend steeply by the steel cable upwards. Above us, we will notice old wooden ladders, which are here from times of first world war. The path runs a little left from ladder and starts crossing vertical wall to the left. Here also some strength in arms is needed because at the crossing there aren't many footholds. After a short crossing, the path again ascends by the steel cable almost vertically upwards all the way to narrow ledge on which we continue left. Next follows a little less steep but an unsecured ascent right upwards, which brings us to one more ledge on which we again continue left. Ledge becomes narrower and we also get help from a steel cable. From the ledge we then again continue almost vertically upwards. On the next narrow ledge we continue right. This time quite some caution is needed because narrow ledge, which crosses precipitous slopes towards the south isn't secured. When a view opens up towards the south, the path turns left by the steel cable steeply upwards. Further, the path becomes even steeper and few times vertically ascends, and on short part is even slightly overhanging. In the last part, the path for a moment brings us on narrow precipitous ridge from which a breathtaking view opens up towards the south. We continue left and then follows a steep ascent on smooth rocky slope, which brings us on less demanding upper part of the mountain. On the ridge, we continue to the left and then follows only few meters of ascent to a very panoramic summit.
The path Via Ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud is extremely demanding and it is appropriate only for most skilled mountaineers with enough strength in arms and mandatory self belaying. The described path is one of the most difficult secured paths in the entire Dolomites.
We descend on a secured path on northeast side. In spite of that, that this path is a little easier as ascent path, it is still extremely demanding path, which is not to be underestimated. From the top, we at first descend by the steel cable steeply downwards. After that, the path slowly turns towards the south and continues steeply descending. Next follows vertical descent with the help of some iron spikes, and then the path soon brings us on notch Forcella dei Quaire below the summit Travenanzes. From the notch, we continue towards the south and we descend through the gully downwards. At the descent through the gully we have to be careful, not to trigger stones. After the descent through the gully se then join path 20b little below the notch Forcella Granda.
If we continue right over notch, we have approximately 10 minutes of walking to bivouac Chiesa. And left downwards we can descend over notch Forcella Travenanzes to mountain pass Falzarego.

On the way: Forcella Travenanzes (2507m), Bivouac della Chiesa (2652m)