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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Visoki Rokav / Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav

Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav

Starting point: Poldov rovt (Vrata) (941 m)
Time of walking: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1705 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1705 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Views: 42,876
Trip rating: 7 votes
Number of pictures: 0
Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of valley Vrata and we drive there a little further from the road sign 10km. Here from the right side a cart track branches off. On the left side of the cart track on grass there is placed a relatively large cairn. Near the cart track we park on one of the smaller parking lots.
Path description:
We go on a cart track which runs into the forest and then past a smaller house, where we continue slightly to the left on a footpath. Through the forest, we are ascending slightly to the left towards the stream Rdeči potok. A little before the stream, the path over Brinje branches off to the right (placed cairn, and on the tree is carved some kind of face and letter L). The path then brings us to a riverbed of the stream. Here the path goes on the right side (left bank) upwards and then it soon crosses the stream on the left side. The path is ascending through a small valley until we get to a smaller mountain wall, where we usually also run into a well. The path goes from here right and on a natural passage steeply ascends. Slightly exposed and not secured. We are above the small waterfall (if there is water). Here we come out of the forest and we ascend on some scree. The path on the scree isn't comfortable because storms and avalanches every year wreck the path. The path soon turns slightly to the right and for a short time ascends on a grassy slope. Next again follows the ascent by the scree and we soon come to bivouac Bivak na Jezerih, which we will notice on our left. Here we can sleep or only shelter in case of a storm. Here the terrain flattens. A view on Triglav is from here very nice.
The path from the bivouac ahead is slowly vanishing but we can still follow it. We walk on a meadow named Na Jezerih (here supposedly used to be a lake). Soon on the left we notice not very tempting steep and narrow couloir. Our goal is now saddle between Srednji and Visoki Rokav, which we reach after steep ascent through crumbly and often icy couloir (ascent through the couloir is easier, when there is still snow in it). Ice axe, crampons and a helmet are on this part mandatory part of the equipment. When we step on the saddle (notch) a view opens up on Škrlatica (access possible also from this side). And ahead starts the climbing part of the tour, where difficulty level of climbing often reaches 3rd grade. At further ascent we will need a climbing harness and a rope. A little before the notch in the direction of ascent from the side of Jezerca, we will on our right side notice a steep chimney, on which we will with the help of climbing piton (it helps us when belaying with a rope) ascend a level higher. After that, the path passes on a ridge on and by which we are then ascending. Difficulties on exposed ridge occasionally still exceed 2nd grade of climbing. A little below the summit, the steepness decreases and more panoramic "path" quickly brings us on a panoramic peak.
The path through the couloir Rokavski ozebnik is often icy and dangerous for slipping. Because of significant technical problems in the upper part of the mountain we should go on the path only appropriate equipped and even then during the stable weather. On this path go with someone, who already was on the top, preferably with a mountain guide.
On the way: Bivak na Jezerih (2118m)
Pictures:
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