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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Veliki Oltar / Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

Starting point: Ruski križ (1000 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4444°N 13.7746°E 
Path name: on NW ridge
Time of walking: 6 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1621 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1820 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 19,906
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 11
Access to starting point:
First, we drive to Kranjska Gora, and then we continue driving towards the mountain pass Vršič. Only a little before 3rd hairpin turn of Ruska cesta or Vršič road, we will on the right side notice Ruski križ (a cross), and on the left a smaller parking lot, where we park. Because the parking lot is relatively small and quickly full we can park also a little higher on a larger parking lot little above the 4th hairpin turn (in this case, we have to our starting point at Ruski križ descend a little).
To the starting point, we can also come from Primorska side through the mountain pass Vršič.
Path description:
Only a little before 3rd hairpin turn of road Ruska cesta, we will notice by the road signposts for mountain hut Koča v Krnici, which point us slightly left on a wide cart track which immediately starts moderately descending. After few minutes of descent through the forest, the path flattens and it brings us to a riverbed of Suha Pišnica. Only a little after we cross the mentioned stream, the path turns slightly to the left and it brings us out of the forest on ample grassy slopes of the mountain pasture V Klinu, where on the right side we notice a lonely cottage, and on the left a smaller memorial park Mali Tamar. The path ahead entirely flattens, and then it joins the forest road which comes from the former hotel Erika or bridge over Velika Pišnica. Here we continue right, and we follow relatively steep forest road all the way to the mountain hut Koča v Krnici, which we reach after approximately 20 minutes of additional walking.
From the mountain hut, we go towards Špik to the left direction. Already after few minutes we come to a torrent gully by which we are then ascending. The marked path on Špik after a good hour of walking from the mountain hut Koča v Krnici crosses the mentioned gully and then it is ascending on the left side of it. And when a marked path which leads on Špik goes away from the gully, we will notice a poorly beaten footpath which is ascending by the foot of the scree, by the gully moderately upwards. The path which is ascending by the gully is full of gravel and because of frequent storms full of loose rocks. On parts a little poorly visible path, then leads us on a little narrower gully, which higher splits into two parts. We continue on and by right gully, which a little higher brings us on extensive scree below the northern wall of Škrlatica. At first quite clearly visible footpath, crosses the mentioned scree slightly towards the left and crosses it mostly by the foot of it (diagonal ascent towards the north). Further, we soon on a smaller hill below an indistinct peak notice a bivouac Bivak v Veliki Dnini. If there is a fog and if we don't know the path we will hardly find it. To here there is approximately three hours of walking. Ahead we can ascend to bivouac, which is otherwise slightly away from the path, but ideal spot for a shorter or longer rest. If we decided, that we bypass bivouac we continue on a barely visible footpath which is ascending on narrower scree upwards. Strenuous scree then ends and we continue the ascent on broken rocky groove, which soon brings us to first anchor below an overhang. Next follows key part (good II. grade) few meters upwards over smaller overhang to the second anchor point below very rough connective ridge between Velika Martuljška Ponca and Veliki Oltar. On rough gully is needed ascend about 10 meters to the third anchor point in the notch Kačji jezik. Unpleasant part is behind us, because follows most beautiful part of tour. Approximately 200 meters of poetry in stone (I - II grade), as i like to call it, namely northwest ridge of Veliki Oltar is one great enjoyment. So compact rock is only in Mali Oltar. After a good 200 meters of climbing over plates and rifts we get closer to a last wall. Over wall we can exit straight to the summit, or we make easier detour on the left side to chimney, which brings us on broken upper slope of Veliki Oltar. To the top is only a short walk. We descend on the same route, or we descend on Jezerca.
It is probably recommended, that I warn, that the ascent on Veliki Oltar is a climbing ascent of II grade where the knowledge of safe use of complete climbing equipment and climbing skills is needed. The route is well equipped. Safe ascent and a lot of pleasure on northwest ridge of Veliki Oltar.
On the way: Koča v Krnici mountain hut (1113m), Bivak v Veliki Dnini (2180m), Velika Martuljška Ponca (2602m), Mala Martuljška Ponca (2501m)
Trip can be extended to: Visoki Rokav , Škrlatica
Pictures:
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar1
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar2
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar3
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar4
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar5
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar6
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar7
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar8
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar9
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar10
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar11
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