Türlwandhütte - Hoher Dachstein (Super Ferrata)
Starting point: Türlwandhütte (1695 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 47.4501°N 13.61762°E
Path name: Super Ferrata
Time of walking: 8 h 30 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferrata: E
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1300 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1600 m
Map:
Access to starting point:
Through the Karawanks Tunnel, we drive to Austria, and then we continue driving on Tauern highway. Further, we drive through the tunnel Katschberg and later also Tauern tunnel, and the highway towards Salzburg we follow only to exit for Radstadt, Schladming. We continue on the road to the settlement Schladming where we then continue left on an ascending road following the signs Ramsau. In the settlement Ramsau, we continue a good 2 km on the mentioned road, and then we turn right on a payable road, where signs for cable car point us to. We follow this road all the way to a large parking lot in front of the bottom station of the cable car.
Path description:
From the parking lot, we continue past the bottom cableway station following the signs Südwandhütte. The path at first leads on the right side of the cableway through a thin larch forest, later turns to the left and crosses slopes towards the west. Soon the path towards the climbing garden (Klettergarten) branches off to the right. We still cross the slopes towards the west and from the left joins the path from a lower starting point. From the crossing then follows approximately 10 minutes of walking on a scenic slope to the mountain hut Südwandhütte.
From the mountain hut, we continue by following the signs for »Klettersteig Anna« and in a gentle descent, we cross a slope towards the north. The path quickly brings us to a crossing, where we continue left downwards, straight leads the path towards the climbing path Johann. From the crossing, the path starts a little steeper descending past rare dwarf pines and again brings us to a crossing. This time we continue right following the signs »Klettersteig Anna«, left leads the path downwards towards the mountain pasture Glösalm and Bachalm. The path then soon brings us on the scree which we cross for some time, and then signpost points us slightly to the right, straight leads the path towards the mountain hut Adamek Hütte. The path further is marked with red dots and after a short ascent, it brings us to the entry of a climbing part of the path.
The climbing path already at the beginning ascends on an almost vertical column, and there are numerous iron spikes for help (difficulty C/D). After that, the path becomes slightly less demanding and soon turns to the right where we are ascending by the steel cable on a steep rocky slope. Next follows again more demanding ascent with the help of iron spikes, which brings us to the spot named Mittersteinköpfl (C). The path then turns to the left and then follows a short crossing to smooth plates (B). The path then ascends on smooth plates upwards (B/C) and then also steeply ascends with the help of iron spikes (C). Next follows an ascent on a very steep groove (C/D). Further, the path becomes slightly less demanding (to B/C), but still very exposed. In the last part, the path becomes demanding again and with the help of numerous iron spikes ascends on a vertical smooth wall (D). After that, the path gradually becomes less demanding and then follows an ascent by the steel cable on a less demanding ridge to the top.
From the top, we continue on the ridge and after a short descent joins a direct path from the mountain hut Südwandhütte.
The path which is marked with red dots further crosses slopes towards the west. In the early summer on this part of the path, snow fields are still possible. The path then turns to the right and it ascends on the scree to the entrance into the climbing path Johann Klettersteig.
Climbing path at first ascends by the steel cable towards a wall (difficulty C), after that a short crossing to the left follows, which brings us to the initial overhang, which is the most difficult spot on the whole path (difficulty E). Through the overhang there are iron spikes for help, but in spite of that at the ascent, we need a lot of strength in arms. From the overhang, which isn't too long follows a steep ascent with the help of iron spikes (difficulty D). For a short time, the path becomes slightly easier (difficulty B), and then it again steeply ascends by the steel cable (difficulty C/D). Further, the path is for quite some time ascending on a steep slope (difficulty to B/C) and it brings us to a short less steep part, where it is possible to rest.
The path again becomes demanding and is at first ascending by the steel cable (C) and it brings us to an even steeper part of the path. Further, we are for quite some time ascending on a mostly vertical wall upwards, and we get help from numerous iron spikes (C/D). Higher when we come to the spot named Adlerhorst (2470 meters), the path becomes even more exposed and ascends on a vertical smooth wall upwards (D). The vertical ascent is relatively long, but also on this part of the path, we get help from numerous iron spikes, which make the ascent easier. The path then brings us on a little wider ledge on which there are a lot of stones, therefore we have to be very careful, not to trigger stones.
On the ledge, the path turns slightly to the right and after a shorter steep ascent (C/D) brings us to an inscription box at an altitude 2500 meters. Further, the path becomes a little less demanding and only occasionally steeply ascends. In the last part of the path towards the mountain hut more demanding parts are becoming more frequent (difficulty to D). At the very end of the climbing path Johann follows an exposed exit traverse, which brings us to the hut Seethalerhütte. At the mountain hut, which is located right next to glaciers a beautiful view opens up towards the north and on mountains above the glacier.
From the mountain hut, we continue on a wide settled path on a glacier, which starts slightly descending. We soon come to a turn where the path turns right downwards. At this spot, we leave this path and go firmly left towards the eastern ridge of the peak Hoher Dachstein. At the ascent on a glacier, we will also cross a crevasse, which is marked with a warning sign. On this part, the glacier is relatively gentle and we soon come below the rocky slopes of the eastern ridge where we leave the glacier.
To the beginning of the secured path, we first have to climb from a glacier approximately 20 meters on a quite steep unsecured slope. On this part belaying with a rope is recommended. Initial steep part otherwise we can avoid if for a short time, we continue on a glacier and then we continue sharply left and we ascend through a narrow gully to the secured path. In this part, the glacier is slightly steeper and we cross another smaller crevasse.
When we come to a secured path, we are still quite steeply ascending by the east ridge (difficulty to B). After that, the path becomes slightly less steep and runs on the right side of the ridge. Later, the path from the ridge turns to the right and after a crossing on the ledge joins the path which runs over a glacier.
At the crossing, we continue left and we again start ascending a little steeper (B). Further, the path few times steeply ascends with the help of iron spikes and stemples, and then we soon reach the peak.
The described path is extremely demanding and is graded with a difficulty level E. The path is also very long, so it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers who are fit enough and have a lot of strength in arms.
From the top, we descend on the ascent route to the glacier after that on a settled path which leads on a glacier towards the upper station of the cable car. Instead of using a cableway we can descend also on foot through a notch Hunerscharte (difficulty B).
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