Ullachtal - Westliche Mitterspitze (Leoganger Süd Klettersteig)

Access to starting point:
Through the Karawanks Tunnel, we drive to Austria, and then we continue driving on Tauern highway. Further, we drive through the tunnel Katschberg and later also Tauerntunnel, we follow the highway towards Salzburg only to exit for Bischofshofen, from where we continue driving on a four-lane road towards the already mentioned town. From Bischofshofen we follow the signs for Zell am See and then for Saalfelden and Lofer. In Saalfelden then we turn left towards Leogang. In Leogang we leave the main road and we continue right on a narrow road where the signs for mountain hut Passauer Hütte point us to. Further, we follow the signs for mountain hut Passauer Hütte and parking lot Parkplatz Ullachtal. We park on the mentioned parking lot by which there is also few information boards and signposts.

Path description:
At the starting point, we go on a macadam road where signposts for mountain hut Passauer Hütte point us to. Macadam road runs through the forest and it quickly brings us to a wide riverbed of a torrent. Through the riverbed of a torrent the road is ruined a little and poorly visible and then it is again nicer and it brings us to a marked crossing.
At the crossing, we leave the macadam road and we go right upwards and we start ascending on grassy slopes. The path then crosses a grazing fence and continues to ascend on the mountain pasture upwards and it brings us to another marked crossing.
The path branches off to the left towards the cave Birnbachloch from which stream Birnbach originates, and we continue right towards the mountain hut Passauer Hütte. The path then soon brings us into the forest and by the path, we will further notice numerous information boards, which describe various plants and animals. After a short ascent through the forest, another path branches off to the left towards the already mentioned cave Birnbachloch, and we again continue right. Further, we are then long time ascending through the forest and occasionally we cross also shorter clearings from which a view opens up on surrounding peaks. And by the path there is occasionally also a bench. At the spot named Kaserstein next to benches there is also a table and a smaller woodshed.
Further, the slope then becomes slightly steeper and the path out of the forest brings us into dwarf pines from which we have an increasingly beautiful view on surrounding peaks. A little higher, the path leads past another bench where the path turns to the right and then soon becomes a little more demanding.
Further, the path is ascending on a quite steep slope and we also get help from steel cables, and on some spots for easier ascent there are also stairs. From the right then soon joins the path over the peak Plattenkopf. We continue left on a well-settled path, which is occasionally still secured with a steel cable. Such a path then brings us on a saddle Hochtor from which a view opens up towards the mountain hut Passauer Hütte.
On the saddle where there is a crossing, we leave the path towards the mountain hut Passauer Hütte and we go right towards the secured climbing path Leoganger Süd. The path from the saddle crosses relatively steep slopes towards the east and it also slightly descends. After few minutes of crossing, we come to the entry of a climbing part of the path which is situated at an altitude 1940 meters. From the starting point to here, there is approximately 3 hours of walking.
The climbing path already in the very beginning vertically ascends, and besides steel cables we get help also from some very small stemples (difficulty D). The path is for some time still almost vertically ascending by the steel cable (C), and then the path turns slightly to the left and in a gentle ascent crosses smooth plates (B). We go again to the right and we start ascending steeper by the steel cable (C) to the side ridge, which is partly covered with grass and dwarf pines. The path is then mostly ascending by the left side of the ridge (to B/C) and brings us on a little more vegetated terrain. For a short time, the path becomes a little less demanding (A, A/B), after that the ascent is again becoming gradually more demanding and is steeply ascending by the steel cable. On some spots, we also get help from a small stemples. Next follows a very demanding almost vertical ascent (C), which brings us to a grassy ledge. Here we continue right on the ledge (A), and then again left upwards into a vertical wall (C/D). Few times we very steeply ascend, and on some spots we get help from a stemple. The steepness then slightly decreases and ascent on smooth plates (B) brings us below an overhang.
Next follows 20 meters of extremely demanding overhang crossing to the left difficulty E. Crossing isn't entirely horizontal, but it slightly also ascends diagonally which makes climbing and clipping even more difficult. In case if we are using additionally short rope for resting the difficulty of climbing is a little lower, namely D.
Immediately after the overhang crossing then follows a vertical ascent right upwards (C). The path here brings us into a short groove from which again follows a vertical ascent over which we get some help from stemples (C). The slope then for a short time becomes less steep and follows only the last demanding ascent to the top of which, we get help from numerous stemples (C).
The described path isn't appropriate for a descent, therefore we descend on the path Leoganger Nord, which also isn't very easy and reaches difficulty level C. When we plan the ascent we also have to take into account, that the path on which we descend runs on the northern side of the mountain and snow can last a little longer time as on the south side.
Grades of difficulty, which are in the description are such as on images, which are shown on information boards by the path. We also have to take into account, that the grades are quite strictly assigned and on a lot of paths, which are otherwise same difficulty we would see at least half grade higher difficulty. Besides that fixed safety gear on the path are occasionally placed the way that we need to use also natural holds, which for less experienced can mean also a little more difficult climbing.
The described path is one of more difficult of these sorts of paths and it is appropriate only for climbers and experienced mountaineers with enough strength in arms. It is mandatory to use a helmet and self belaying, highly recommended is also the use of climbing gloves and additional short rope for resting.

On the way: Kaserstein (1460m), Hochtor (1922m)